Here is a pictorial diary using “Wash and Dye Bastard. When dyeing with Wash and Dye Bastard”, you will expect to use more dye and you will see more residual dye when you dump the exhaust. For experienced dyers, normally seeing opaque exhaust water is a sure sign your fiber will NOT be colorfast (with Wash Fast Prochem Dyes). Using Wash and Dye Bastard, you will have to change the way you evaluate your exhaust water. The exhaust water will often contain more residual dye. This is because the shampoo brings molecules to the cuticle (making your colors more vibrant with depth of color you’ve never seen) and once the cuticle is saturated, those excess molecules are discarded in the exhaust.
How the Teeswater locks started out. One wash with Wash and Dye, leaving it basically “Dirty.”
Freshly applied dye on Teeswater locks.
Check your fiber to make sure the dye is in contact with all the fiber. Wash and Dye strongly attracts dye and you will have very little running of dyes into other parts of the fiber. Make sure you check that dye is hitting everywhere you want the dye to take.
Putting the fiber from the heat (after sitting and cooling) and into the colander.
Dumping the dye pan. This is how the residual may look. Reds are notorious for having more residual dye in the exhaust.
The first rinse after they dye bath. DO NOT RINSE WHEN THE FIBER IS HOT from the pot or bath. You need to wait until cool to rinse or you will inadvertently rinse out dye which would be “colorfast” if you had waited.
Apply Wash and Dye Bastard after rinsing some of the residual dye off. Leave it on for ~10 minutes before rinsing off.
The rinse water after 3 total rinses in HOT water. It should rinse clean before you dry or it is NOT colorfast.
FINISHED!
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